Pár hřejivých slov úvodem

Vítejte, lidé dobří i špatní, malí i velcí, ženy, ženy a taky muži, lidé s uhry, a předpubescentní nedomrlčata. Vítejte, mí skvělí kamarádi, ba i vy, odpadové společnosti, které jsem možná jaktěživ nespotkal.

Vítejte u Olihně Poutníčka, místa, kde se vše lenivě vleče a kde jsem si sám pro sebe. Jak je psáno, Oliheň Poutníček, toť receptář dobré nálady, deník chrabrého sestovatele a sborník literárního refluxu.

Dostojí se zde prostoru romantickým výletům s květy a peřím, romantickým vstáváním o kuropění, romantické pohodičce ve dvou či třech a potom tomu literárnímu refluxu.

Budu si zde tudíž dělat radost, tropit žerty, ve volné chvilce sepíši to Nejdůležitější poznání světa z okamžiku.

Poznámka k výhradám vůči infantilnímu názvu:

Nelitujmež nápadů trvalých hodnot, jež jsou zplozenci našich výstředností a opileckých mánií. Naopak: rozvíjejmež je! Protože proč by ne? Tvůrci, sebestředy takových myšlenek jsme stále jen my sami a jsme-li pro danou chvíli upřímní sami k sobě, jsme to my v ryzí podobě teď a tady. Proto budiž Oliheň Poutníček svým a mým, ač jeho nom může zavdat podněty k pohrdání a posměškům. Nechmež jej tudíž v míru cedit vodu, v níž se zrodil, a učiňmež jej šťastným chápavostí!

A hlavně, „Poháněno“ WRDpress, tak ústa zkomolmež do velkého Ó, v rámci posvátné úcty k pohánění.


S láskou Oliheň Poutníček


X) The Day of a Sudden Death (2. 4. 2017)

Today, unexpectedly I was woken up by Ihwal (the very same guy who drove me there two weeks ago)! He was sent to take me further, to Mamasa, to help me to Toraja. In his pocket he held a letter from Sardhy, explaining situation and asking for a petrol support (Ihwal has problems with English).

What a shocking morning! I did not expect more from Sardhy save the WA report and all good wishes and voilà! The Toraja calls. Now what? I still had plans in Rantelemo…

Obviously I can stay in Mamasa for 13 days and then aim to Toraja, maybe doing some CS… I will try!

So the fuck I went! I left! Before, I demanded to wake up at least the little of the sisters (neighbouring children, very merry and joyful), to say farewell. And she was sleepy. And crying in the end why I cannot tell… I gave the farewell letters, I gave the tokens of power and good luck.

  • My green „Ondřej“ pen for a good luck – to Mama Sapmi;
  • token of bird – to Berd Papamuti;
  • token of calmness – to Eryn (younger daughter living in the same place);
  • token of wise man to granddad.

I am so grateful for all of them. This time it was me who got attached and was crazily moved when I told them goodbye, when I bid them farewell… Focking sad! Perfect – even me, cynic, I am bearing a potential to become emotional to basically unknown people. I am proud of it. I am a man, I am alive. Not crying, but almost. ;o)

So who knows, maybe I will return here once, maybe with Zu, they want to meet her again anyway. And I want to come to Sulawesi, to scooter there! For even the punk roads can be possibly ridden/overcame.

An, now nothing will be satisfying enough in Sulawesi… Although the Toraja buildings are quite touching, looming over the horizon…

IX) Tulang-tulang (1. 4. 2017)

To vám tak místní řeknou, že za domem jsou ty staré kosti – po tom, co zmíníte, že jste napůl archeolog…


One nice day we set forth to see the old bones. I had mixed expectations, but the reality exceeded them all.

I thought the bones will have been long time gone – people supposedly take bones as tokens or talismans. However, there it was! A rock formation with old half-rotten or dissolved coffins of wood, damaged by bugs, protecting „the old bones“.

  • Unknown origin.
  • Bones weren’t set anatomically, they are haphazardly, as the locals were dealing with them.
  • 4 complete skulls, at least two males and one female – estimated from classical inter-sexual differences (adjusted for the sample I just had there).
  • One male skull was definitely robust, as big as European skulls, with a broad foramen piriformis.
  • The one female was very small, much smaller than Europeans.
  • Then shatters of flat skull bones, probably belonging to at least 1 female and 1 infant.
  • Except for the infant, the skulls were mature or old adults – the skulls were missing most teeth, the alveoli closed, the sutures were fused.
    • No teeth were present save one – probably they were taken by the locals as talismans.
    • The one remaining tooth was an upper canine, growing frontally through a jaw – but was probably not visible in vivo and was not a cause of death.
  • If only I could remember the age estimations based on sutures fusion and teeth abrasion… I guessed age above 40 (based on Euro knowledge, how amateur!).
  • The juvenile skull shard was a thin flake, yet fibrous.
  • In no bone I had seen I found the indication of cause of death.


    Arrangement of Big Four. Upper right corner is a wooden coffin cover. (The camera got surprisingly better for the documentation moments.)

Other bones

We didn’t take all of them to light from the shady and hardly accessible coffins, but as we did, we collected still a great amount of bones.

  • 3 mandibles (1 of them broken),
  • 7 pelvic bones, all super tiny – and of course I cannot recognize the post-delivery changes,
  • scapulae,
  • clavicles,
  • 1 metacarpus (I suspect daddy from taking it with him afterwards),
  • 6 humeri,
  • 6 tibiae,
  • 6 femurs,
  • 1 fibula,
  • there were also ribs,
  • 1 sternum.
  • As I recall, no radius nor ulna were taken.

The bones in general were smaller than I am used to, maybe like little European women, perhaps as small as the contemporary locals would be.

  • No artifacts were found.
  • One humeral head of a cow (I assume the species – there were no representatives of a big fauna around).


    Anthropologist’s paradise…

The locals did not know the origin of bones, they were most likely not related to the Bambang people, they were found by grandad’s granddad (100 years ago).

The condition of bones was good enough to think they are not extremely old. In the jungle area, next to the river they’d rot/decompose sooner, the same fate would go with their coffins.

The collapsed coffins were of a huge size and retrospectively I assume they contained more than one corps inside. Coffins – meaning of being buried in a hollow space (Christians?). They were not actually buried in the ground but under rock overhangs.

Even today, the locals are giving the place offerings. We saw many non-smoked cigarettes around, partly dissolved by the humidity.


Cigarette, skull and camera back in its best shape.

What a nice day!

VIII) Christian sermon (29. 3. 2017)

Once again, I am in a strange situation! :oD

Among a big Christian meeting of Rantelemo. I was asked to join, me, heretic, ehm. Nothing happens now, let’s see.

Some random notes:

  • Local people are of Bambang ethnic;
  • when people hike, it takes around 1 week. Why? There are no roads, no paths uphill and they must cut the way through jungle – > and beware the hiding people;
  • some believe the hiding people are angels (Blaničtí rytíři).

No English during the sermon, I am afraid… How long will it take?

  • Největší banán na světě!!! Velký jak tahle stránka (A4)! Jako moje paže i tloušťka sedí. Brutal! Jdu to jíst – zdalipak se vleze do pusy?

Well, it’s over now, mostly, seemingly. Christian activities are quite boring, but cheap compared to other religions. Just speaking… And nice singing. Most of people, at least older, were sleeping. Not me, nor children.

In the end, after the sermon was truly over, here was a man selling his vegetables. Indoors. :oD

A paní domu je úplně bábi Dáša, zlaté srdce domu.

And finally, to avoid the last day boredom, I decided to carve some of the snakefruit seeds to my liking. Afterwards I would give those as presents, to the most important people in Indonesia (I even made up some logical systems to give particular carving to particular person).

And, to remember my first carving works, I drew them and just recently took pictures of them, so they could still be all together as a single collection.

Once I will learn how to become an artistic magician! (And honestly, I think the second line of the faces was already quite nice.)